Walk into any jewellery shop and ask for a gold chain, and the first question back will be: what style? It sounds like a simple follow-up, but if you have never thought about the different types of gold chains before, the names can feel like a different language.
Curb, Figaro, rope, belcher, spiga, Franco. Each one is a distinct construction, a different way of linking metal together, and each one sits, moves, and wears differently. Getting this decision right matters because it affects how the chain looks with a pendant, how it holds up to daily wear, and how it ages over years of use.
Manna Jewellers in Birmingham's Jewellery Quarter stocks all the main gold chain styles in 9ct and 18ct yellow, white, and rose gold. Browse the full gold chains collection or the dedicated 18ct gold chains range online.
Gold chain names describe the link construction, not the metal quality. The same style comes in 9ct or 18ct.
Curb chains are the most popular type of gold chain in the UK: flat, uniform, interlocked links.
Figaro chains alternate a longer link with two or three shorter ones, one of the most recognised gold chain styles worldwide.
Rope chains twist multiple strands of gold together, creating a textured surface that catches light along its length.
Fine trace and spiga chains carry pendants well. Heavier curb, belcher, and Franco chains work better when worn alone.
Width matters as much as style. A 1mm curb reads as delicate. A 5mm curb reads as bold.
The curb is the most common gold chain style in the UK. Each link is a twisted oval that lies flat when the chain is laid out, interlocking in a uniform pattern. The result is a smooth, consistent chain that catches light well, particularly in diamond-cut versions where faceted edges are polished into the metal.
Curb chains come in a wide range of widths, from very slim versions under 2mm to substantial widths of 5mm and above that are designed to be worn alone. They work for both men and women, sit naturally at any length, and a solid curb in 9ct gold is one of the most durable everyday chain options available.
The Figaro is one of the most recognised types of gold chains globally, originally popularised in Italy. The pattern alternates one longer, elongated link with two or three shorter, round links, then repeats. The variation in link size creates rhythm and visual interest without adding significant bulk.
Figaro chains work well with a pendant centred on the longer link and look equally good worn plain. They sit as a natural middle ground between the simplicity of a curb and the texture of a rope chain.
A rope chain twists multiple strands of small gold links into a helical pattern, mimicking the look of twisted rope. The construction creates a textured surface that reflects light from many angles, giving the chain more visible shine than a flat chain of the same width.
Rope chains also feel notably present on the body. The twisted construction uses more metal than a simple link chain, so even a relatively narrow rope chain has good heft. They are among the stronger gold chain styles because stress is distributed across multiple strands rather than concentrated on single links.
The belcher, sometimes called a rolo chain, is made of D-shaped or round links of uniform size, each connected to the next at a right angle. The result is a chunky, solid chain with clear individual links that sits close to the body.
Belcher chains have a bold, classic look popular across a wide age range. They carry heavy pendants securely and also work well as a standalone statement chain.
Spiga is the Italian word for wheat, and the chain earns the name. Small oval rings are woven together diagonally, creating a chain that looks braided when laid flat. Spiga chains have a refined, delicate appearance and move fluidly against the skin.
The slim, fine look makes spiga chains particularly good for pendant necklaces where the chain should sit quietly rather than compete with the pendant.
The Venetian chain, sometimes called a box chain, is built from square links connected in a continuous line. The flat faces of each square link give it a clean, architectural look that reads quite differently from the rounded warmth of a belcher.
Venetian chains sit flat and do not twist, which makes them reliable pendant carriers. They suit a modern aesthetic and work particularly well in white gold and rose gold.
The Franco uses V-shaped links arranged in two rows, creating a chain that is notably more solid and rigid than a standard curb. It is associated with a bolder aesthetic and is more common in men's jewellery than women's. Manna stocks Franco chains in 18ct yellow gold from 1mm width upward.
|
Chain style |
Link construction |
Look |
Best for |
|
Curb |
Flat interlocked twisted ovals |
Smooth, uniform |
Everyday wear, pendants, both genders |
|
Figaro |
Alternating long and short links |
Rhythmic, textured |
Pendants, everyday wear |
|
Rope |
Twisted helical strands |
Textured, high shine |
Statement wear, worn alone |
|
Belcher |
D-shaped uniform links |
Chunky, classic |
Heavy pendants, statement wear |
|
Spiga |
Woven diagonal oval rings |
Refined, braided |
Delicate pendants, lightweight wear |
|
Venetian |
Square links in a line |
Clean, architectural |
Pendant wear, modern styling |
|
Franco |
Double-row V-shaped links |
Bold, solid |
Men's statement chains |
The most practical question for pendant chains is whether the links are large enough to thread a pendant bail through, and whether the chain is fine enough not to overpower the pendant itself.
Fine spiga, slim Venetian, and trace chains are all good pendant carriers because they lie flat and keep focus on the pendant. Rope chains and Figaro chains also work well. Very heavy curb and Franco chains can visually overpower a smaller pendant.
Expert tip: The National Association of Jewellers' advice on buying jewellery recommends visiting a jeweller in person before purchasing, because seeing the weight, finish, and construction of a chain in real life tells you far more than images can. For chains specifically, holding the piece and testing its drape against your skin is the most reliable way to know whether a style and width are right for you. The Manna Jewellers team at the Jewellery Quarter showroom can show any chain style from the collection in person before you commit.
The main types are curb, Figaro, rope, belcher, spiga, Venetian, Franco, and snake. Each describes a different link construction and creates a different look and feel when worn. Curb chains are the most common in the UK. Figaro chains alternate link sizes. Rope chains twist multiple strands together. The chain style is separate from the metal quality, which is determined by the gold carat.
Gold chain names describe the link construction, not the metal. Some names are descriptive: rope chains look like rope, box chains look like interconnected boxes. Some are geographic: Figaro chains originated in Italy. Some are trade terms that have stuck through convention, like belcher and spiga. The name tells you how the chain is built and what it looks like, not how much gold it contains.
Rope chains and Franco chains are among the strongest types because their construction distributes stress across multiple strands or rows of links rather than placing it on single-link connections. Fine trace chains and slim Venetian chains are more delicate and better suited to lighter pendants or occasional wear than heavy daily use without removal.
9ct gold contains 37.5% pure gold, is harder, more scratch-resistant, and more affordable. 18ct contains 75% pure gold, has a richer, deeper colour, is softer, and carries a higher price per gram. For a chain worn every day without removal, 9ct offers better practical durability. For occasions or where colour depth matters, 18ct is worth the extra cost.
The Jewellery Quarter is one of the best places in the UK to buy gold chains, with a high concentration of jewellers stocking a wide range of styles, widths, and carats. At Manna Jewellers, thegold chain collection covers curb, Figaro, rope, belcher, spiga, Venetian, and Franco styles in 9ct and 18ct gold. All chains are hallmarked and hand-finished in the Hockley Street workshop.
Manna Jewellers has been in Birmingham's Jewellery Quarter for over 40 years. The gold chain collection covers all the main types of gold chains in 9ct and 18ct yellow, white, and rose gold, across a full range of widths and lengths. All chains are hallmarked and hand-finished in the Hockley Street workshop. Pendant necklaces, gold jewellery, and pre-owned pieces are also available in store and online. Book an appointment to view chains in person before buying.
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